We had been meaning to pay Roganic a visit for a long time. For whatever reason we never got around to doing so until now and we’re glad we did.
Ever since we made the trip up north to L’Enclume in Cumbria we’ve been fans of Simon Rogan’s cooking. When we heard he’d opened a pop-up restaurant in London we were keen to go.
A few months ago Roganic‘s head chef, Ben Spalding, left Roganic to branch out on his own (and has since been working with Brett Graham from the Ledbury and started the Strippedback project off Broadway market). Since then Simon Rogan has been more heavily involved with making sure that Roganic stays on track. And it shows, the cooking and service are spot on.
We were there for dinner on a Saturday. On Saturday’s Roganic only serves a 10 course non-vegetarian and 10 course vegetarian menu. Being the carnivores that we are, we opted for the 10 course non-vegetarian menu.
The 10 course menu at Roganic consisted of:
- Peas with beef tongue dill and calamint (9/10)
- Grown-up yolk from a golden egg, celeriac and garlic (9/10)
- Keen’s dumplings, cream of onion, nasturtiums and liquorice powder (8/10)
- Dragon’s egg, pineapple weed and goat’s cheese snow (8.5/10)
- Grilled salad smoked over embers, truffle custard and cobnuts (8.5/10)
- Razors with sea herbs, turnips and pearl barley (7.5/10)
- Chick ‘O’ Hake,beetroots, sorrel and roasted bone sauce (9/10)
- Reg’s duck breast with yellow beans, sweetbreads, sage and corn (9.5/10)
- Douglas fir, cherries, goat’s milk, and pennyroyal (10/10)
- Hazelnut and sweet cheese, rosehips and anise hyssop (10/10)
We thoroughly enjoyed our dinner at Roganic. The food is very similar to the food served at L’Enclume. Some of the flavours that I tasted during our dinner were completely new to me and it’s clear that Simon Rogan likes to experiment with food combinations and cooking techniques. And os able to do so very successfully. Compared to for instance Viajante, whose head chef Nuno Mendes also likes to experiment at will, the flavour combinations are more subtle but still very enjoyable.
Roganic also has some nice wines on offer and the service is as good as it gets.
Roganic has a 2 year lease on a premise in Marlybone, which will run for another 6 months or so, after which they’ll likely find a home somewhere else in London. Once Roganic finds a permanent place it will surely get a Michelin star (there is no doubt in my mind about that). It is one of the better restaurants in London at the moment and pushing the boundaries of flavours (like for instance The Ledbury).
Overall rating for Roganic: 8.5/10